Haider Ackermann: Mad Mode
Paris – Paris runways are full of disturbed women this season. Haider Ackermann opened with mad mode in a sensationally well cut and composed collection Saturday, March 7.
“A troubled woman, escaping her past, but coming from nowhere,” said Ackermann when explaining his fall 2009 collection backstage.
In a sense, this was classical Ackermann with his signature leather jackets, sculpted like hand puppets. Yet there was also an insanity plea as seen in the jagged draping of felt dresses.
Even his rare print was distressed – such as his broken plaid, fur lined bolero, the best biker look seen anywhere this season.
Ackermann cuts with a grand, yet always arty hand, so felt wool gowns, swirl bias-cut to the floor, and boleros dip like men’s dress vests. His devil was also in the great details – like mossy bullion flowers that rimmed jodhpur pants or fringed vests, or a red curtain tassel belt, or a mesmerizing metal scarf worn as a vest.
Ackermann has had a slow boil of career, but this show confirmed him as a major voice in fashion. One could tell from the applause meter, the prolonged, hearty clapping that celebrated this first rate show.